LALIBELA

We left Desi in pouring rain. We had spent the night in the Ghion, which is a Government hotel. We have never found out what exactly that means, however the faces and the attitudes of the staff had a sort of government air about it. Anyway it was the most comfortable bed that we have slept on for weeks and everything comes at a price. We were sorry not to have had the opportunity to take photos in Desi, the shanty town, as it was too dark when we arrived and with the rain in the morning, plus the fact that the whole town is under construction to upgrade the water supply, which incidentally meant that there was no hot water, yet again. Under construction here does not mean the same as we are used to. Here everything is upside down. It is as if the job is being tackled from all possible areas without a plan. In the town that we stayed, literally the whole city centre and adjacent areas were dug up, without anybody in sight actually working. It is if all just happens by osmoses. Anyway we got out and off we went.

Our first stop was at an 11th century monastery where Dick went in to explore. No women are allowed in and it was also the last night of a fasting period for the Orthodox Church, so there were many monks and priest in attendance. Dick enjoyed it though. He had a personal guide to take him through the museum, etc. I must say the monastery was situated in the most beautiful setting, on the shore of a huge lake and with the most tranquil garden with hundreds of birds. After an hour or so we were off again on the road to Lalibela over mountains after mountain and endless passes of the most astounding beauty. A long and winding road now has new meaning to us. It is actually impossible to describe the roads to anybody. We just do not have a frame of reference in our country to refer to. The Swartberg pass is gentle compared to what we have travelled on, not only on our way to Lalibela but also on other days. We arrived in Lalibela sort of late afternoon and very ready for a hot shower and a bottle of wine.

We booked into the Seven Olives, which is an old style hotel, built by Haile Selassie for the priests in Lalibela. It overlooks the town and we spoilt ourselves and stayed there for 3 days. They also have a lovely restaurant and we had electricity and hot water for the full duration of our stay, which incidentally coincided with a major religious event and the end of a fasting period. Well, I can tell you, they made up in celebration for this. There were festivities for all 3 days and it actually continued for another 2 after that, but more of that later. As soon as we arrived, we were “introduced” to an official guide, whom I took an instant dislike to, there was something about his eyes that I didn’t like, but he came recommended, for what that was worth! One actually need a guide to take you through the churches, otherwise you miss out on quite a bit, so it is a bit of a catch 22.

The next morning we were ready at 8 to go and see the Rock Hewn Churches, armed with cameras and guide. Well, yet another experience that left us “gob smacked”. How on earth do you understand that these churches were not built, but carved out of solid rock, with windows and interior carvings and sculpted walls and you name it. These churches were carved out in the 11th century over a period of 24 years after King Lalibela, the ruler at the time, had a vision to do this. It defies human understanding how this came about, but that it is real and powerful and alive as current houses of worship, is a fact. There are 11 of these churches in the Lalibela cluster, of which the most famous one must be the St Georges church. This is the one shaped in the form of a cross. We have many photos to show when we get home, however the experience is a personal one which sits deeply ingrained in the mind and soul and spirit. By mid day we were finished and went back to the hotel for our own St Georges, the local beer which we have taken to.

The next day we went back to the churches just to cement some of our experiences and to explore some more of the town. We walked and went to look at all the other hotels and were surprised to see how many there actually were in the town and to see that prices were good and that there were some good affordable accommodation. We stopped at one of the local hotels and the guy in charge came to show us around and invited us to come and have supper there the evening. We were so surprised, however we honoured the invitation and went the evening and had a super Ethiopian meal, prepared by him. It was Tibs with Ingera, which is a little pottery dish with a hold for hot coals underneath. The food goes in the dish and the coals keep it warm or rather HOT. It is the first time in my life that I have experienced the food getting hotter, instead of colder as you go. The meat dish was lamb, which they cut up in really small pieces, thus “tibs” and cook with onion, garlic, chillies and when finished add some uncooked tomato pieces. It was delicious. You eat it with the local pancake like goody, called “ingera” with it and some bread to mop up the gravy/sauce. All this is done by right hand. Well I cheat and use any hand and lick my fingers, which is not strictly the right way, culturally! Eating with my hands come naturally to me, as most people will know. Dick seems to be managing fine as well. 23 years of observing me must have helped!

We loved Lalibela and both of us will treasure the experiences forever. We left in rain and tackled the next +-300km with light hearts and keen to experience the next exciting chapter of our holiday!